Dodge City Restaurant Impossible Update – Say it about “Restaurant: Impossible,” the hit Food Network show that began its fourth season Wednesday: It’s not afraid to stick to a formula. In each episode, the menu and decor of an ailing restaurant is revamped in 48 hours on a $10,000 budget.
The project always seemed hopeless at first, mostly because the food was bad, the staff was bad and the building was in ruins. But salvation comes in the form of Robert Irvine, a brawny British chef in a snug black polo shirt, who, through a mixture of tough love, skill and shouting (and with the help of an interior decorator and a crew of carpenters), changing. the place.
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The final scene of each show is a house full of customers happily eating from a menu that has changed dramatically in a busy and beautiful room. Cut to the former hopeless owner, beaming with joy.
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If a business is in such dire straits, can it become a thriving business in just two days?
In some cases, surprisingly, the answer is “yes,” as you will find out by interviewing many restaurant owners who have been given the “Impossible” treatment. At the other end of the spectrum, a handful of innovative restaurants are closing. But most find different strategies to cope with life after radical surgery.
In many cases, that means stopping menu items Mr. Irvine said, often for unexpected reasons. “We have to bring back our beef cannelloni, even though that dish is frozen,” said John Meglio of Meglio’s Italian Grill and Bar in Bridgeton, Mo. perfect feeling. But what he doesn’t know is that people here are eating frozen pasta from the same supplier in St. Louis for the past 50 years. “
On its face, “Restaurant: Impossible” is about American love for the second time and a wand makeover. But the more you talk to the owners who are making the change, Chef Irvine-style, a deeper theme emerges: the myth of the management consultant.
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Like all consultants, Mr. Irvine parachuted in and reconfigured a business, bringing his expertise and decades of experience to bear. It’s hard to argue that the changes he’s set out are, on paper, anything but a big improvement. On paper. In practice, there is a strange, hard-to-measure variable known as people. And many of them have their own definition of “high-end,” which, in some cases, confuses anyone who attended culinary school or who regularly visits high-scale restaurants.
“The food is delicious; it didn’t fly,” said Mr. Meglio, who still isn’t sure if his restaurant will survive, more than a year after the episode aired. “It’s a Midwestern thing. You make a lot of changes that it’s quick and it pisses people off. And the changes piss people off to the point of no return.”
Doug Krick Sr. plans to close his restaurant in Pennsylvania before he is saved in “Restaurant: Impossible.” Credit… Kalim Bhatti for The New York Times
Under a contract signed by each restaurant in question, Mr. Irvine and his interior decorator introduced any changes they wanted. Owners, who apply and interview to appear on the show, can only watch, learn and hope that customers like the results.
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They always do, at least on opening night. A small explosion of publicity and lines out the door occurred when word spread that “Restaurant: Impossible” had come to town and was about to make a big reveal. The real drama begins soon. Do newcomers always come? Will the regulars stay?
“We kept the new menu and the new identity for about 60 days,” said Philip Villari, of Villari’s in Palmyra, N.J., the restaurant featured in the pilot episode in 2011. “But we found out that we can survive the traffic that the Food Network brings.” Mr. Irvine steered the restaurant toward fancier fare with higher prices, such as fillet with risotto and demi-glace. But customers still say they want the file and “no other stuff.”
“We’re more of a neighborhood organization,” said Mr. Villari. “Our customers want fries and burgers on a Friday night.”
A spokeswoman for the Food Network declined to comment for this article, other than to say that the show plans to revisit his work at some point in the future.
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The proposal for “Restaurant: Impossible” is easy to imagine: “This Old House” meets “Iron Chef,” with the framework of three acts in one action film. (The format and tenor will be familiar to fans of Fox’s “Kitchen Nightmares,” which stars celebrity chef and profanity maestro Gordon Ramsay as the heavy.)
As the leader and taskmaster of each mission, Mr. Irvine is three parts drill sergeant and one part epicure, with a body and summary to match. He began his culinary training with the Royal Navy, and later cooked at the White House and at several high-profile casinos. What he didn’t do was work for three presidents and the royal family, as he once admitted, a brief summary of a development that emerged in 2008 and briefly cost him his role in a previous Food Network show.
That experience did not soften the man. In “Impossible,” Mr. Irvine is calm in his criticism (“This is probably one of the most disgusting kitchens I’ve ever been in in my life”) and always angry at the speed of progress (“You’re killing me … Hurry up!” ). Many restaurateurs swear they have a sense of humor, but if so, it’s well hidden or edited out. Then, the seriousness of Mr. Irvine fits the tone of the program, which is about trying to save a family business in the midst of a near-death experience.
“Let’s face it, most of us had one foot in the grave to begin with,” said Timothy Queisser, owner of Snooty Fox in Indianapolis, which aired in Season 2 and closed in October after nearly 30 year. The disappointment of Mr. Queisser, gave Mr. Irvine pub motif for his restaurant and some British entrees, a dramatic departure from the food, despite the Anglophilic name.
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“How often do people say they want to eat British?” asked Mr. Queisser, who now works for a company that manages gas stations and convenience stores. The rebrand has actually been in the works for over a month, thanks to curiosity seekers who heard about the change. During this initial attack, Mr Queisser recruited his brother, a chef, who looked around and issued a dire prophecy.
“He said, ‘You don’t have time to build a new reputation, and in the meantime your old customers don’t like what’s happening and they leave,'” Mr Queisser said. “And he was right. Ten or 12 weeks ago, it was like the lights went out.”
John Meglio said he’s still not sure if his restaurant will survive, more than a year after his episode aired. “The food was good; it didn’t fly,” he said. Credit… Dan Gill for The New York Times
Mr Queisser got several thousand dollars worth of prawns, fillets and cod for fish and chips in his freezer. “I wouldn’t say they were the death of us,” he said. “They did a good job of redecorating. They gave us a big PR shot, but they left us in the lurch.
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There are also owners who are eager to search for “Restaurant: Impossible.” During an episode that aired in Season 2, Doug Krick Sr. knelt down and murmured, “Sweet Jesus, God almighty,” when he saw his newly decorated Dodge City in Harrisburg, Pa. His enthusiasm hardly waned.
“Before we heard we were accepted to be in the movie, we made the decision to close,” Mr Krick said. “Two more months to go.”
The remodeling put a high gloss on the restaurant’s Western theme, and some of Mr. Irvine hits from the start, including bison taco flavor and hanger steak with smoked tomato and orzo blue cheese. Why did Dodge City succeed where others failed?
“I think it’s because we know we have to say goodbye to our old customers if we want to survive,” Mr Krick said. “We have no choice but to attract a younger crowd.”
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Like a lot of reality TV, the show relies on a little sleight of hand. It seems like the renovation is dreamed up so quickly, but the decorator actually shows up a month or two in advance to measure and start planning. Containers full of raw materials arrive before Mr Irvine, but restaurant owners are forbidden to open the boxes.
“You want to look, but you can’t,” said Georgia Savvidis, owner of Pastori’s in Ellington, Conn., another success story for the show. “It’s a surprise.”
Although not always of the happy variety. Jody Dwyer, owner of Wood Grill at Flood Tide in Mystic, Conn., was amazed to find mahogany panels.
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