Camera Lens Guide For Beginners – I’m a big advocate of minimal footage. I’ve shared more footage with minimal equipment and why you might want to. When it comes to traveling or spending the day with my camera in San Francisco, I choose to pack as little gear as possible. But how do you choose?
When you go out on a day of shooting without much planning, it can be difficult to decide which lens or lenses to take. Should I bring the telephoto lens so I don’t have to worry about focal length and zoom in on my subject? Or should I bring the 50mm prime lens because I know I’ll need lower f-stops to get my best shots as the sun sets? What about the special lenses like Lensbaby or Petzval? So many choices. Everyone creates completely different sets of photos.
Camera Lens Guide For Beginners
We cannot predict the future and know what lens to bring. We could decide to bring everything, but it is bulky, heavy, and not to mention unsafe on the streets of a city. The more you bring, the less creative you are. If I commit to bringing at most one or two lenses, I make sure they work in every situation.
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If you’re just starting out and only have one lens, it’s actually a good thing. This means trying to be creative with how you capture your photos. You learn what works and what doesn’t and focus on doing the best you can with what you have.
A prime lens is a lens with a fixed focal length. When I first heard about prime lenses I immediately pulled them off because I wanted the convenience and flexibility of zoom lenses, you may be thinking the same.
Prime lenses are faster and have a larger maximum aperture. Most typical 18-55mm kit zoom lenses have a maximum aperture of f/4 or f/5.6, depending on the focal length. If you use a prime lens like the 50mm f/1.4 lens, your aperture will be four stops faster. That sounds good, but what does it really mean?
With a larger aperture, you can take better photos in low light without a tripod. The other big plus is the depth of field. All those photos with beautifully blurred backgrounds (aka
Understanding Camera Lenses: A Beginner’s Guide
The first lenses I bought were two kit lenses for a Nikon D40 in 2007. I made the same purchase decision when I switched to the Canon Rebel xSi a year later.
I bought these lenses for a reason. I thought they were a good deal. They were cheaper together and it felt like I could capture every shot with them. I was wrong. For the first lens purchase, I only considered the focal length. But there are many other important factors to consider.
After several years of experimenting with these lenses, I realized their limitations. I could never take good pictures at night unless I had a tripod. But that requires planning, and personally I don’t like walking around the city with a tripod. Nothing makes you stand out more than mounting a tripod.
The goal of the street photographer is not to stand out. You have to blend in with the environment to capture the scene as it is. It’s like asking a person to “smile” when you take their picture. It is a guarantee to make the most inauthentic portrait ever. The same applies to street photography.
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The other downside of these kit lenses is the focus and mood I wanted to create but couldn’t. At some point, your photography skill level will exceed your equipment. When you feel frustrated and unable to create the photo you have in mind, you know it’s time to invest in better equipment.
However, I do not recommend that you start with the most expensive lenses as a beginner. Instead, grow with your equipment. If you don’t start by trying out a standard zoom kit lens, you’ll never learn which features are most important to you. Reaching a level of frustration is good, it means you learn and move on.
So what do you do when your kit lens just won’t cut it? You choose a prime lens.
Remember when I said I only focus on focal length when choosing my first lens? You probably are too and I know why. You want a lens, the “unicorn” to do everything for you. You want to shoot wide-angle cityscapes or landscapes, as well as zoom in to capture the details. But the harsh reality is that such a unicorn does not exist.
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If it exists (or will exist in the near future), it will be extremely expensive and cumbersome to carry. You may not immediately think about the size or weight of your gear, but after an hour or two of shooting, you will feel the tension in your neck and shoulders.
Therefore, you need multiple lenses for different photography purposes. Again, you only learn what you need in a given situation through practice, trial and error. Each lens serves a purpose and creates a different mood or type of photo.
If you prefer to shoot in open spaces, you may want to invest in a 24mm lens or 35mm lens. Is your main focus portraits? The 85mm lens is what you are looking for. Or if you’re like me and like to shoot in cities, you might find that the 50mm prime lens is an ideal focal length for 95% of your shots.
Want a more affordable option? Check out the Canon 40mm f/2.8 STM prime lens, also known as the “pancake lens” for its compact size. It is in the lower price range, but it offers a wide focal length and bonus! Its weight and size make it an ideal travel option.
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To help you choose which prime lens to start with first, I created this infographic as a quick reference guide to help you choose! This guide includes all the Canon prime lenses that I shoot and recommend.
The 50mm is the number one lens recommendation I heard about before I even considered prime lenses. Many rave about it in online reviews. Most who buy it say it’s their favorite lens, use it all the time, and can’t imagine shooting without it.
I totally agree. Ever since I bought the 50mm prime lens, I never go on a photography adventure without it.
It is light and compact. The perfect companion for street photography because it doesn’t draw attention and doesn’t strain my neck when I walk for hours.
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50mm is the middle field of focal lengths. 24mm and 35mm are too wide for most situations unless you only shoot landscapes and indoor locations. 85mm is way too wide and I don’t do portraits. So 50mm is the closest to experiencing both worlds.
More importantly, it allows me to take the pictures I’ve been dreaming of, but just can’t with a standard or telephoto zoom. I crave the smooth, creamy bokeh effects of wide apertures like f/1.4 (and I’m not afraid to admit that I mostly shoot at f/1.4 when the situation allows). He creates natural vignettes that draw you into the city scenes I capture.
With this lens I can easily take clear, focused photos during the golden hour and into the night. I couldn’t shoot the bright street lights of San Francisco without my 50mm. How are you doing! Even though cell phone cameras continue to improve and reach unimaginable levels of image quality, I always carry a bigger, heavier, more complex camera. For what? One word: lentils! A camera with interchangeable lenses opens up a wide world of photographic views through a huge range of optics. Choosing from dozens and even hundreds of lenses can be confusing and intimidating, so in this beginner’s guide I’ll explain the types of lenses available and what you should buy.
A lens focuses light to form an image on the camera’s digital sensor or film plane, just like our eyes work. to the narrow, selective vision of a telephoto lens. We call this the viewing angle.
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Lenses are classified according to their specific focal length in millimeters. At the simplest level, this millimeter marking corresponds to the distance between the optical center of the lens and the camera’s image sensor when in focus. From that focal length designation, we know what an image will look like – especially the angle of view – on a particular camera. Focal length is the most important factor in determining which lens to use for a given photo.
Note that the images above are taken with a full-frame camera – that is, a camera with a sensor that is approximately 24 × 36 mm in size. If your camera has a smaller sensor like aps-c or Micro Four Thirds, it will work like a “crop” of the above images and look more magnified at each focal length. To be specific, aps-c cameras have a crop factor of around 1.5× and Micro Four Thirds cameras have a crop factor of around 2×. (In the rest of this article, when I mention specific focal lengths, I will do so in terms of
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