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Lately I’ve been getting a few inquiries about travel photography and especially about my photography style. Most photographers can achieve a certain unique style to their photos by using three things: camera RAW, photo editing and manual mode camera settings. Today I wanted to provide a quick beginner photography guide to shooting in manual mode on your DSLR camera. I usually shoot with my Canon 5D Mark iii with my Canon 35 mm f/1.4 L lens, but this article can be applied to most DSLRs and lenses.
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There are 3 important things you need to focus on when shooting in manual camera settings: shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Shooting in manual mode is so important because it allows you to have complete control over how your images look. With my personal style, I like to shoot quite sharply but with a nice depth of field. So I tend to shoot at a low aperture around f/1.4 to get that unique style.
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I also love shooting in manual mode because it makes editing in Adobe Lightroom a breeze where all my photos look exactly the same and my camera settings don’t change anywhere between each photo. Although I never shoot using automatic mode camera settings
I found that when I turned on auto mode camera settings in the past, the settings for my photos were pretty much all over the place, which made my job quite difficult when editing in Lightroom. For example, my aperture can jump from f/2.5 to f/9 just by moving my camera in a slightly different direction. You have no control over what your camera will do, and that really limits you in the photo editing process.
I’ll give you a quick breakdown of what shutter speed, aperture and ISO are. Basically, the shutter is the mirror in the camera that opens and closes every time you take a picture. On the Canon 5D Mark iii you can have it as fast as 1/8000, and if you want to do a long exposure you can have it as low as 30 seconds (so the mirror stays open for 30 full seconds). The aperture is the blade in your lens. So when you have it open at 1.4, the blades are wide open, allowing a lot of light into your photo and a very wide depth of field (which is how you get the unique bokeh style and blurred background). If you set your aperture settings higher, say at 1.8, the blades close, so you get less light in the photo and also result in more sharpness.
And then we have ISO which is your sensitivity detection. I always leave my ISO at the lowest possible setting, which is 100. You can push your ISO up to very high settings like 100,000, but you usually only need to do that with night photography or when it’s dark in your shooting environment. . However, remember that the higher your ISO, the brighter your images will be. On the Mark 5D iii I usually don’t like above 6400. I find that anything beyond that is a bit too grainy for my style. So I generally like to keep it between 6400 and 100 when I shoot.
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So jump into actually shooting in manual mode. I know it can be a little scary at first if you’ve never done it before or if you haven’t always shot with automatic settings turned on. However, I promise that if I explain the way I do things and you go out and practice it, it will honestly become second nature in no time.
Shooting in manual mode doesn’t take time away from the photographer – it only makes you a stronger photographer in the long run.
Usually when I photograph personal work I like to leave my aperture wide open – somewhere between f/1.4 (the lowest value my lens is capable of) and 2.5, because I personally like the style of that bokeh in the background and a nice depth of field (blurry look). When I was shooting for a paying client, I still wanted to keep my depth of field style in my photos, but I wanted to make sure the images were very sharp. So in that case I would usually shoot at f/2.8 or f/3.5. When I’m doing landscape photography (as opposed to portrait photography), I like to move my aperture settings up to around f/5.6 to make sure everything in the image is sharp.
With that in mind, the first thing I like to do when shooting manual is to choose the aperture I want to shoot at. I usually leave my aperture open all day unless the lighting changes a lot. For example, when it gets really dark, I want to make sure my aperture is on the lowest possible setting, so let in as much light as possible (in my case, my lens can aperture f/1.4, so that’s what I do) . would choose dim lighting).
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The next thing I want to do is move my camera ISO settings down to 100. And again, if I shoot into the sun, ISO 100 is where it stays. Every time I will shoot. So now you have 2/3 settings that are pretty much set and won’t change for the rest of your shoot.
So the last thing you need to manually set is the shutter speed, which is the most important setting. So what I usually do is point my camera in the direction I’m taking the photo, and look at my evaluation meter (the light meter on top of the camera). Basically I move the meter until I get the small line in the middle). Then I take a test shot, look at the photo, and more than likely the exposure is correct. However, you can make some changes as needed. For example, if I look at the picture and it looks a little dark, I can move my shutter down a little, and then I’m ready to shoot.
So I basically do this for every location and every other lighting situation I have for a shoot. So if it’s easy enough, that’s because it’s cute! Honestly, you just need to practice a little, take your time and think about what you are doing.
One of the first camera settings that should be changed for bright outdoor photography is the ISO settings. An ISO setting of 100 will be the best, so you can speed it up at any time – you definitely should. A lower ISO means you should be shooting in a brightly lit environment, as the setting lets less light into the camera.
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Below I’ve included a series of photos my cousin and I took recently during our trip to Europe: I’ve included the camera settings below so you can get a better idea of why these manual camera settings are much more consistent offer over a series of photographs (and understand the basics of photography a little better in terms of factors such as shooting environment and lighting).
Aperture: f/2.5; with a relatively low f-stop (f/1.4 is the lowest I can handle), my cousin and I were able to achieve some background blur while retaining enough detail in the building and flags behind me.
ISO: 100; that’s what I always set my ISO to when I’m shooting in the best lighting (ie bright/outside). The lower your ISO, the sharper your images will be. When it gets darker outside (maybe around 5 or 6pm), I might have to start pushing my ISO up a bit – somewhere around 200-300 ISO should work well if the sun hasn’t already set.
Shutter speed: 1/1200; because my cousin and I were shooting at a faster shutter speed, she was able to capture my movement (
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It was a windy day which brought even more movement to the photos). If it was later in the evening/darker outside, we would have to shoot with a lower shutter speed. It would have been harder to capture what we were thinking with this set (unless we used a tripod).
To sum things up, I have a few rules that I usually follow when shooting in manual mode.
Below I’ve included a basic camera settings cheat sheet – feel free to save this for later and use it for
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